Pre-Pandemic In Paradise

Right at the beginning of the mega-virus scare, back before any of “this” had really happened when people were talkin’ pandemic but still traveling, grabbing burgers, and swapping spit like innocents, Mark and I burned halfway across the Pacific Ocean on a plane bound for Hawaii.

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The trip feels like a million years ago. We landed at Lihue on Kauai and spent the next 4 days dodging rain clouds, stomping through red mud, ocean swimming and sun roasting. In Kauai it’s always kinda sorta raining but actually really hot and sunny too. 

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The days got better and better. We ate scenic sandwiches on all manner of beaches and scoped the blossom-scented switchbacks of Waimea Canyon. Snorkeling in front of the fancy hotels at Poipu, I brushed paws with a sea turtle as he lumbered out past the breakers. The afternoon felt charmed. A benediction on our spring vacation. After high-octane daily doings, we’d always end up lounging by the pool in the late afternoon, drinking homemade margaritas and Mai Tais that got you tipsy in three sips.

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This was my first time in Kauai and I liked it too much. The locals were nice—too nice. If I were them I’d tell the tourists to fuck off (which is more like the vibe on the other touristy Hawaiian islands). The older I get the more conflicted I feel about tourist travel. There’s something very problematic about clueless people arriving in hordes and claiming their piece of the paradise pie. I’m no different, a foreigner from a rainy land to the east coming to get mine. 

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The rules I abide on the road: Be humble and be cool. Shut my mouth. I’m a firm believer in how much respect you can show a local culture by not being a loud-talkin’ kook.

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